Method
We leave the train two stops before the border, where the salt air replaces the engine grease.
No itineraries survive three days on foot, and that is usually when the real journey begins.
Field dispatch
Coastal stations and dawn market rhythms
A place rarely reveals itself in mid-afternoon light; you have to wait for the shop shutters to roll down and the local bus schedule to settle.
We travel light, record quietly, and stay long enough to learn the names of the platform attendants.
Quarterly sessions are limited to ensure disciplined research and undivided focus.